♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ -Today on "America's Test Kitchen," Dan makes Julia a classic Taiwanese dish, gua bao, Jack challenges Bridget to a tasting of hoisin, and Maggie makes Bridget quick Taiwanese pork rice.

It's all coming up right here on "America's Test Kitchen."

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♪♪ -I love witnessing the evolution of American supermarkets.

10, 20 years ago you could only find bao, for example, in specialty markets, but today they're in the freezer section of pretty much every supermarket.

And they're the after-school snack of choice in my house.

So Dan's here today to show me how to make them from scratch.

-So, Julia, we're gonna make a really special kind called gua bao... -Mm!

...which is the folded style that has just gained this insane popularity in America.

So, they're defined by this plush, really light texture.

-Mm-hmm.

-And that comes from two things, steaming them -- -Mm-hmm.

-You don't form a crust on the outside of the bread, so they can expand a lot, but also your dough formulation has a big impact on how light and airy it is.

So, everything we're doing is in the service of lightness.

So, we're gonna start with our flour.

We have 2 1/2 cups of all-purpose flour in here.

And to that I'm gonna add a tablespoon of sugar.

I also have 1 3/4 teaspoons of instant yeast.

And you'll see some recipes that are just yeasted.

-Mm-hmm.

-When we tried them, sometimes they would work really well, but you wouldn't get the loft that you really wanted.

-Gotcha.

-So we're actually gonna to use a teaspoon of baking powder.

And then finally I have 1/2 teaspoon of salt.

I'm gonna put it on low speed just till it's combined.

-Mm-hmm.

-Okay.

So, for the liquid in the recipe, we're gonna use milk.

This is an enriched bread.

-Hmm.

-So, when you're making, like, sandwich loaves and that sort of thing, you want a little bit of the fat and some of the protein in the milk.

It really does a nice job of tenderizing.

-Mm-hmm.

-So, I have a cup of whole milk.

This is heated to 100 degrees, just in service of jump-starting that yeast and having it rise a little bit faster.

And then for the fat in the recipe... -Mm-hmm, okay.

-...this is 2 tablespoons of shortening.

It has the ability to trap and hold on to air.

-Mm.

-The shortening really makes a big impact.

So, I'm gonna mix this on low speed until it forms a ball around the hook there and there's no dry flour.

-Mm-hmm.

Okay, that's exactly what I'm looking for.

There's no dry flour.

So, we're gonna mix it on medium low for about five minutes, and what I'm looking for is the smooth, beautiful, elastic dough that just pulls all the way off the sides.

Okay.

-That's a pretty dough.

-That's looking pretty good, right?

-Mm-hmm.

-So, I'm just gonna knead this for a couple seconds here, just really smooth it out, and then just round it up.

Beautiful.

Alright, so, I've got my bowl here, and I've got 1/2 teaspoon of veg oil that I'm just gonna get in there.

Make sure it's nice and greased.

I go in first smooth side down, roll it around, and then flip it.

Then we're just gonna cover it.

And we're gonna let this rise until it's doubled in volume.

Takes about an hour.

So, Julia, if you eat gua bao around the US... -Mm-hmm.

...you've probably seen it with some pretty interesting fillings.

-Oh, yeah.

Fried chicken.

-Fried chicken, a lot of vegetarian ones with, like, mushrooms.

-Mm-hmm.

They're all wonderful.

We're gonna go with something pretty traditional.

This is a braised pork belly.

-Oh, yum.

-I have a beautiful 2-pound center-cut piece of pork belly, skin on.

-Mm-hmm.

-And this is really what you're looking for, something nice and even like this.

So, I'm gonna cut this into 3/4-inch-thick strips this way, and then we'll break it down a little bit further.

Alright, and now we're gonna simply cut these into 2- to 2 1/2-inch lengths.

-Okay.

-Okay, so, now I'm gonna add my pork belly.

And it's gonna slowly sear and brown.

Now, if you have more than actually fits in a single layer... -Mm-hmm.

-...you can give it a minute.

It starts to shrink down, and you get the other pieces in.

-Gotcha.

-Okay.

Great.

So, now that it's in there, I'm gonna sear this until we get really beautiful browning.

We're gonna flip it about halfway through, cook for about 15 to 20 minutes.

We're gonna render fat, get great browning, build a lot of nice flavor.

So, it's been about 20 minutes.

It smells so good.

But we're gonna really build on this with a lot of nice flavors.

-Okay.

-So, over here, I have 3 cups of water, and we're gonna build our braising liquid.

-Okay.

-So, I have 3 tablespoons of hoisin.

-Mm-hmm.

-I also have 3 tablespoons of soy sauce.

3 tablespoons of oyster sauce, which is such a fabulous ingredient.

I have 3 tablespoons of light brown sugar.

And then finally 1/4 cup of Shaoxing cooking wine.

Okay, I'll just whisk this together.

Alright, so, we're gonna go into our Dutch oven with our braising liquid.

Okay, and then to that braising liquid, I also have three arbol chilis, nice a little bit of heat there, but not too much.

It's gonna kind of balance that sweet-heat profile.

-Okay -I have three crushed cloves of garlic, two star anise pods, and then I have an inch of ginger that I just peeled and cut into a few rounds.

Alright, let's stir that all together.

So, we're gonna need a pretty significant braising time and temperature here.

So I'm gonna bring this up to a boil over high heat.

I'm gonna cover it and then lower the temperature to maintain sort of a vigorous simmer.

So, a little bit more than you normally would at a simmer.

And we're gonna cook that for about an hour until it is nice and tender, not fall-apart, holding it together nicely, but really tender and unctuous.

Okay, I would say this at least doubled in volume.

-Absolutely.

Super squishy.

-Right?

That warmth and the yeast really just went to town.

I love it.

-Smells like a really good bakery.

-So, we're just gonna pop this out onto our counter here, nice clean counter.

We'll set this aside.

We're gonna use this a little bit here.

So, what I'm gonna do is first just kind of pat some air out of it.

-Mm-hmm.

-We want nice fine bubbles throughout.

Then I'm just gonna form it into a rough little round again.

You don't have to be too precious here.

Again, that also expels some of that excess air.

-Mm-hmm.

-And then I'm just gonna split it in half.

Return this here.

We're gonna keep everything covered as we work.

Okay, so, our next step here is to roll this out to about an 8-inch log.

Alright, and we're gonna cut this into eight kind of coins basically.

So, let's go down the middle.

And again.

And again.

Alright, so, with these, we're gonna flatten them out, fold in, kind of like we did with the big dough there.

-Mm-hmm.

-And that brings it all together, gets us sort of a nice top.

And then what I like to do is just round them up a little bit so when we roll them out, we get nice, even edges on them.

So, I'm gonna put a damp towel over this, just to keep it... -Mm-hmm.

-...again, from drying out.

And I'll repeat that with this one.

Okay, great.

So, what I'm gonna do for each of these, I'm gonna start with one at a time.

Keep the others covered.

-Mm-hmm.

-And so I'm just gonna roll this into basically a 6-inch-long oval.

So, I just like to go at the center and then up and sort of back and forth like that.

Okay, great.

So, now I'm gonna bring this over here to the cutting board.

Basically just want it off the surface I'm working on 'cause I'm gonna add a little bit of oil to it and I just don't want it to get over here.

So, I'm just gonna brush it very lightly with a little bit of oil on top.

And this is the coolest part.

To form that folded shape... -Uh-huh.

-...you just basically take a chopstick here and you fold it over and pick it up.

Make sure my edges are nice and lined up.

And then I transfer it to a perfect little square of parchment.

Okay, so, this is fully formed and perfect.

We've got the oil on the inside, which is gonna prevent it from sticking so we'll able to open it up afterwards.

-That makes sense.

-This needs to proof for about 30 minutes, as any bread dough would.

-Mm-hmm.

-And then it'll be ready to steam.

-Okay.

-Okay, now I'm gonna repeat with the others.

Okay, so, this pork cooked for an hour.

-Mm-hmm.

Mmm!

-I just want to show you the tenderness that we're looking for here.

-Okay.

Not falling apart.

-Not falling apart, but incredibly tender, right?

-Yeah.

-That looks perfect.

So, I'll use my slotted spoon here to get the pork out.

-Mm-hmm.

-Okay.

Beautiful.

Now, this liquid is gold.

-Yeah.

It's also capped with a lot of pork fat from the searing and then also the simmering.

So, I'm gonna pour it into a fat separator.

-Alright.

-We're gonna let this settle for about 15 minutes until that fat comes to the top, and then we'll put the sauce back in here.

Just give it a squeeze.

And the liquid that's on the bottom comes out, leaves that fat right behind.

-Yep.

Alright, that's great.

So, what I'm gonna do is put this over medium heat, and we're gonna reduce it down to about a cup.

-Mm-hmm.

-Really concentrate those flavors, and then it's gonna coat the pork beautifully.

-Nice.

-Probably takes about 15 minutes.

Okay, you can see this has come down a lot.

It starts to get almost like syrupy at the edge.

-Yeah.

-So, I'm gonna turn this off, and we'll return the pork to it.

There we go.

-Mm-hmm.

-And then we're gonna cover this and set it aside, keep it warm, while we finish up our bao.

-Okay.

-Okay, so, these have sat for 30 minutes.

We covered them again to make sure that they don't dry out on the outside.

-Mm-hmm.

-And you can see that they are nice and puffy.

-Oh, yeah.

-Beautiful.

So, I have two steamer basket layers here, and I have my wok over here.

This has 4 cups of boiling water in it.

So, depending on your steamer basket, you can probably fit more or less, but I'm gonna do 4 in each.

Give them all plenty of space.

Okay, great.

So, simply stack.

And we'll pop it on.

Now I'm gonna lower the heat.

We want to maintain a very gentle simmer, and you're gonna see little wisps of steam coming out, but it doesn't have to be at a full boil.

We're gonna steam these for 10 minutes this way.

-Bao achieved that unique, plush, airy texture thanks to two things -- the shortening in the dough and the steaming.

By adding a shortening to the dough, which is a solid, instead of oil, which is a liquid, we're able to create a stiffer dough that's able to retain the air bubbles formed during kneading.

Now, if we baked this dough instead of steaming it, the surface would quickly dry out and form a firm brown crust.

This rigid exterior would prevent the air bubbles in the dough from expanding further.

However, bao are steamed in a humid environment, which prevents a crust from forming.

As a result, the air bubbles created during kneading have more room to expand as the bun rises and cooks.

And that's why bao have that delightful tender and delicate texture.

-Okay, so, that's 10 minutes.

I'm gonna turn off the heat and then remove this whole setup.

Pop it right over here.

I'm gonna let this sit for about five minutes.

-Mm-hmm.

-And then we're gonna take the buns out to the cooling rack.

-Okay.

-This is the big steamy reveal.

Let's take a look what we made.

-Ooh!

-Oh, those look incredible.

-Yeah, they're so puffy.

-Look at that.

So, I'm just gonna transfer them over to a wire rack here.

-Mm-hmm.

And now I'll just repeat with the second sheet here.

-Okay.

-And we've got our water boiling and ready to steam.

Now, Julia, after cooking together, I am always very excited for when we get to taste it, but I think I might be the most excited about tasting that I've been in a long time.

Let's have a party.

Let's do it.

-Alright, I'm gonna do what you do.

Okay.

Leave the paper behind.

-So, because we did that oil... -Mm-hmm.

-...it's very easy to open it up, that classic gua bao.

-Oh, yeah.

-And then I'm gonna go for this beautiful piece of pork belly.

-Ooh.

-Nice.

-Hello.

-And then this is some pickled daikon.

We have this recipe in our app and on the website.

-Okay.

-That's gonna add crunch and texture.

It's a little sweet and sour.

So, I'm gonna do a little bit of scallion... -Alright.

-...a little bit of cilantro.

-Okay.

I'm coming.

Ooh.

-And then this is a hoisin soy sauce, very, very easy to make.

Again, that recipe is up on our site and app as well.

Beautiful peanuts.

I have some Thai chili here, as well, if you want to make it a little bit spicy.

-Alright.

I'm doing it.

-Wanna try?

-Oh, yeah.

Mmm!

Mmm!

-I'm gonna be quiet for a minute.

This is so good.

-That's incredible.

-Mmm.

-The texture of the bun itself.

It's like a cloud.

It's airy.

It's got a little bit of chew.

It's got real flavor.

-Mm-hmm.

-And that pork.

I mean, you've got to be kidding me.

-I know.

-It's rich.

It has a little bit of the backbone of the soy and the hoisin and the oyster sauce you put in there.

-But all the work that we put into this dough, in terms of using the shortening and the steaming of it, you do get this beautiful lightness to it.

-Mm.

-So it almost sort of like melts away, and then you just get hit with, like, the pork and then all the nice crunch and texture.

-Mm-hmm.

Dan, these are spectacular.

Thank you for showing me how to make them.

-You're welcome.

-If you want to make these wonderful, pillowy bao, start by adding baking powder and shortening to the yeast dough.

Brown and braise pork belly in a flavorful liquid.

Then shape and steam the buns before filling with pork and garnishes.

From America's Test Kitchen, a great recipe for a Taiwanese classic, gua bao.

This is incredible.

I can't wait to make these at home.

♪♪ -There are sauces, and then there are super sauces, the kind that give you lots of flavor in every bite and can be used on almost any food out there.

Now, today we're talking about one such sauce -- hoisin.

And Jack's here.

He's gonna tell us all about it.

-Yeah, so, I brought three samples that I think are pretty different from each other.

This sauce is so delicious.

Now, first of all, it's fermented soybeans, so it's got all that umami complexity.

-Right.

-Then it's got the sweet and the sour.

There's usually some sugar in there, some vinegar.

You get five spice, some garlic.

It's used classically in General Tso's chicken, on char siu, barbecued ribs.

-Mm.

-And it makes everything it touches beautiful and delicious.

-I agree.

-So, you can dip in.

As you taste these, I think you're gonna notice a couple of things.

One is, is there an ingredient that comes to the fore, right?

Some of these, you get more of a garlic hit or you get a lot of plummy or stone fruit.

-Mm-hmm.

-The other thing is, there's a little bit of difference in texture.

One of them is a little bit grainier than the others, which isn't really a defect, but it may not make a beautiful lacquer, for instance, if you're using it as a glaze.

So, this sauce is a stand-in for a lot of other sauces.

Like, in China, this would not be with Beijing roasted duck, but in the United States, it's often used there because it's got a sort of similar profile, from a flavor perspective, to what would be used in China.

So, anything that you are gravitating towards, anything you're noticing here about what you're tasting?

-I'm noticing that they're all really good... -Yeah.

-...and different.

They're actually very different.

All very good.

Um, you mentioned pasty.

I'm going right to this one.

Or not pasty, but a little grainy, maybe a little bit of texture in there.

And it's definitely thicker.

Um, this one, the spices are forward, warm spices.

-Yeah, so, you're gonna probably taste star anise... -Mm-hmm.

-...maybe ginger in these.

-Ginger.

-Yeah.

You might -- Some of them, you get cinnamon notes coming to the fore.

And those will really be different, and there's no wrong or right there.

They're just different from each other.

-This one has a little blackstrap molasses thing going on there, a little bit of smokiness.

It doesn't taste charred or anything like that, but it tastes like really developed sugar, like sugar that's been really concentrated and almost teetering on burnt, but not quite.

I actually really like that one, too.

-Okay.

-This one, I actually like a lot because I'm getting this fruitier flavor coming forward.

Definitely taste the five spice the most.

I feel like this is the least complicated or the cleanest.

-Is there one that's your favorite?

-Probably this one.

-So, you picked our favorite among the gluten-free options.

This is Lee Kum Kee, and I think it's just delicious.

Didn't really notice the flavor differences... -Mm-hmm.

-...because it's gluten-free.

I don't know that those things are actually related to each other.

-Right.

-And as you said, it's just a delicious hoisin sauce.

-Yeah, I don't feel like I'm missing out... -No, you're not.

-...on anything here.

I'm not missing the gluten.

Alright, this one.

-So, this is Koon Chun, and we thought this was the most complex.

-Yes.

-This is just -- You picked up smoke, charred notes.

You said blackstrap molasses, and that's exactly what the tasting panel said.

It felt a little different than the rest of them.

-Right.

This one is the powerhouse of the three, I think.

-Yeah.

And it's packing the punch.

It's probably not the best glaze.

-Mm.

-But it's got a lot of flavor in every teaspoon.

-Right.

Definitely.

And this is?

-This -- the Kikkoman.

-And we thought this was the classic choice.

-Great.

-You know, you described it as kind of middle-of-the-road in not a bad way, but tasters felt the same, which is, like, if you had to sort of define what should hoisin taste like, this one did a really good job of doing that.

-Wow.

Who knew?

Gluten-free for me, and I learned so much about hoisin sauce.

This was great.

But next time, char siu.

-Next time.

You got it.

♪♪ -Braised pork rice is an ultimate comfort food that comes from Taiwan, and it can be a little bit complicated to make.

But lucky for us, Maggie's here, and she's gonna show us a streamlined version that we can make at home.

-Bridget, today we are going to make Taiwanese pork rice, or lu rou fan.

-Mm-hmm.

-Traditionally, the dish is made with pork belly, but today we're using ground pork to cut the cooking time from 2 hours to 30 minutes.

So, we are going to start with dried shiitake mushrooms.

-Mm.

-Those are fresh mushrooms that are smoked over direct fire to create those little umami bombs.

To get started, we will be soaking them in hot water.

So, here we already have 2 cups hot water with 1/4-ounce dried shiitake mushrooms.

And we have let it sit for about 15 minutes.

And here you'll want to feel them by your hands.

They should be tender throughout.

And I like to squeeze the water out as much as I can so it's easier to brown them later.

-Got it.

-So, first of all, I'm going to remove the stem because the stem is really tough and you don't want to eat that.

And then I'm gonna finely mince the mushrooms into small pieces.

So, here the mushrooms are cut, and we will reserve the mushroom soaking water for later.

So, now we are gonna heat 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil over a medium heat until the oil is shimmering.

-Got it.

-And then I'm gonna cook the mushrooms.

So, you want to cook the mushrooms until they're golden brown.

It will take about one to two minutes.

-Okay.

-So, now you can see that the mushroom has slightly turned golden.

-Mm-hmm.

-I'm going to add two cloves of minced garlic.

-Okay.

-1/2 teaspoon of minced ginger.

So, this is gonna take, like, about one minute.

-Okay.

-So, we want to smell the fragrance, but not browning the aromatics.

So, now we're adding 1 tablespoon of oil.

-Okay.

-And then one pound of ground pork.

And now we're adding a pinch of table salt to it.

Then I'm going to cook this over a medium-high heat until the pork is break down to small pieces and browned.

-Okay.

-This will take 5 to 7 minutes.

So, you can see the pork has been cut into smaller pieces and they're nicely browned.

So we're gonna add one tablespoon of Shaoxing wine.

We're gonna stir here to deglaze the pan for a little bit.

If you don't have Shaoxing wine, dry sherry is the best substitute.

And now we're adding 2 cups of chicken stock... ...and 1 tablespoon of soy sauce... ...and then 1 tablespoon of dark soy sauce.

Dark soy sauce adds a really nice color to it.

It has a slight caramel taste to it, too.

And then we're adding one tablespoon of packed brown sugar and 1/4 teaspoon of five spice.

So, here is our reserved 1/4 cup of mushroom soaking water.

-Oh, right.

-Yeah.

Now I'm going to turn to medium high heat to bring it back to a simmer.

So now we have the broth coming to a boil.

We're gonna add 1/2 cup of fried shallot.

-Mm.

-If you don't have fried shallot, friend onion is just as good.

-Oh, great to know.

-So, now we are gonna cover and turn to medium heat and let it braise vigorously for about 20 minutes.

-Instead of two hours.

-Right.

-Big difference.

-So, now we have the pork cooking.

We have a few minutes, so we're gonna cook some eggs for the topping.

-Okay.

Oh, good.

-So, now here we have 1/2 inch of water boiling.

I'm going to put in the steamer rack.

And then we're cooking two eggs.

We're gonna cover this and let it cook for 6 1/2 minutes for soft-boiled eggs.

-Got it.

-So, now we have the pork simmering for about 20 minutes.

Let's have a look.

-[ Exhales sharply ] -Ooh, smells good.

-Ahh, smells so good.

-You can see that the stock has been absorbed.

It's slightly thickened, and the pork is really nice and tender.

And now we're done here.

-Amazing.

Okay.

-So now let's turn off the heat.

I actually want to add a point that I missed earlier.

-Yeah.

-So, sometimes when you're cooking it, if the heat is too high, the broth might dry out a little bit too fast.

And then you can add some water, about 1 tablespoon at a time, just to bring it back.

-Got it.

'Cause you want it saucy.

-Yeah.

-So, now the eggs are done, too.

-Okay.

-We're going to rinse the eggs in cold water for 30 seconds.

So, now we're gonna peel the eggs.

-Okay.

-Slice the eggs.

So now we're going to assemble the bowl.

-Look at the feast that you've put out for us here.

-So, here we have rice already here.

And I'm going to add the pork topping.

I' gonna add a generous amount of the topping here.

Thank you.

Ooh.

-So, we're adding some gai lan, steamed gai lan here.

-Thank you.

-And now we're adding the eggs onto the bowl.

-Perfect.

Alright.

-These are for garnish and add a really good texture.

So, we have some extra fried shallot.

-Mm.

-And we have some sliced scallion for a pop of color.

-Gorgeous.

-Let's try it.

-Let's do it.

Alright, I'm going right in for a piece of that pork because, really, that's what I'm here for.

Mmm.

-Really good.

-Fall-apart tender.

-Mm-hmm.

-Super meaty still.

So, it's not dry at all.

A lot of flavor.

-The aromatics and the five spice really comes through.

It's like it have a warm tone to it.

-You're right.

-Because the sauce is so rich, the soft egg really just add a contrast and add some softness to it.

Works really well.

-Super complex, but in flavor, but not in effort.

-Mm-hmm.

Right.

-This is kind of an amazing dish, and I'm definitely gonna make this again.

Alright, just one more bite.

Maggie, that's fantastic.

So, thank you so much for showing us how it's done.

-My pleasure.

-Now, if you'd like to make this fabulous pork rice at home, it starts by cooking ground pork in place of pork belly.

Use five spice in place of individual spices and serve with soft-boiled eggs and steamed vegetables.

So, from America's Test kitchen, quick Taiwanese pork rice.

You can get this amazing recipe and all the recipes from this season, along with product reviews and select episodes, and you'll find them all on our website, AmericasTestKitchen.com/tv.

That took forever to say 'cause I really wanted to eat this.

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